Temples, Markets, and Goodbyes in Chiang Rai
Day 1 – Chiang Rai
After weighing our options, settled on Chiang Rai for getaway. Funny enough, even though I’d been living in Thailand for two years, I’d never made so far north. But my best friend, who lived there with his partner for years, often spoke about how calm and peaceful it was compared to the chaos of Bangkok.
Turns out, we underestimated how popular the bus route from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai is. We figured we’d just rock up to the station, grab tickets, and be on our way, like I always did in Bangkok. Unfortunately, every bus was sold out. While we were trying to figure out what to do, we bumped into a friendly Chilean couple on their honeymoon who were in the same predicament. We decided to split a taxi, and it ended up costing about the same as the bus.
When we arrived in Chiang Rai, we checked into our hotel, the Golden Triangle Palace, which was much nicer than I expected. It had a traditional Thai vibe with wooden furniture and shutters, and our rooms were peacefully tucked away from the main road. There was air conditioning, comfy beds, and even a mini fridge to keep our water cold.
Our first task was finding a laundromat. Chiang Rai was so small that everything was within a 10-minute walking distance. On the way, we were offered “happy ending” massages about four times but politely declined. The laundromat was nothing more than a few washing machines in an alleyway. We loaded our clothes, set a timer, and left to explore downtown Chiang Rai while waiting.
For dinner, we chose a Chinese hot pot restaurant since my friend had never tried authentic hot pot. We indulged in an array of meats and vegetables, some of which we had never seen before, cooking them in the spiciest broths they had to offer. While it wasn’t quite the same quality as HaiDiLao in Beijing, we enjoyed it, nevertheless.
After dinner, we wandered through the night markets tucked away in the alleys. To cap off the evening, I introduced my friend to the joys of Thai roti. We found a small street vendor selling fresh banana Nutella roti—it was spectacular, the perfect end to our first day in Chiang Rai.
Day 2 – White Temple, Blue Temple, & Long Neck Karen Village
We kicked off “Temple Day” at the renowned White Temple. While undeniably stunning, it was packed with tourists. Up close, the details were even more surprising—skulls, devils, and figures appearing to rise from hell. The surrounding grounds were charming, with a serene lake and meticulously maintained gardens. Outside the entrance, there was a little market selling souvenirs and snacks, so we perused before heading to the Golden Ganesha Temple. We had lunch at an air-conditioned restaurant. I ordered one of my favorite dishes—Panang curry with rice and a passionfruit smoothie.
Refueled and ready to go, we hopped in a songthaew and headed to the Blue Temple. At first glance, the Blue Temple’s exterior was underwhelming and unremarkable. The structure looked aged, the fountain in front wasn’t functioning, and it was surrounded by a parking lot. But, wow, the interior was one of the most beautiful I’d ever witnessed. The deep blue ceiling, the intricate artwork, and the massive Buddha statue were breathtaking. We sat on the floor for 5 minutes, gazing up in awe and enjoying the cool breeze blowing through the windows.
After leaving the Blue Temple, we struggled to find a ride to our next destination: the Long Neck Karen Village. It was getting late, and we weren’t sure we’d arrive before closing time. After some haggling, we secured a ride and set off. The village was tucked away in the countryside just outside the city. We arranged for our driver to wait for an hour, knowing it would be difficult to find transport back otherwise.
The village left us with mixed feelings. It felt a bit like a zoo, with tourists taking photos of the locals’ homes and the villagers eagerly trying to sell trinkets. The experience felt exploitative, and I couldn’t help but feel guilty. We each purchased small souvenirs, then wandered beyond the tourist area to see how the villagers actually lived. The real villages and farms had a much different vibe—warmer, more welcoming—but even there, someone would always pop out of their house with something to sell.
As our hour came to an end, we hurried back to our driver, worried he might have left. Instead, we found him happily chatting with other drivers, completely unbothered by our tardiness.
Back in the city, we spent the evening wandering through quiet side streets. We stumbled upon a massive garden with thousands of multicolored flowers. We explored in the dark before stopping at a quaint Japanese café, where we bought doughnuts. As a huge fan of Japanese culture, I was ecstatic.
For our final meal together, we went to Melt in Your Mouth, an upscale Italian restaurant by the Kok River. I had spaghetti carbonara with soy milk—it was fantastic. However, the mood was bittersweet—this was our last night together. I was heading back to Bangkok the next morning, and my friend was off to Phuket.
Before calling it a night, we made one last stop at the golden clock tower to watch its mesmerizing nightly light show. It was the perfect way to wrap up our adventure. We planned to take the bus back to Bangkok together the next morning, where we’d go our separate ways… or so we thought.
