Rising Above: An Epic Trek to the Majestic Vinicunca

During a spontaneous visit to Cuzco, my friend and I decided to take a day trip to Vinicunca (also known as the Mountain of Seven Colors). With limited time and money, we booked the most affordable tour we could find for 70 PEN (20 USD) departing the following morning. We woke up at 4:50 AM and waited for a van to pick us up. A guide from the travel agency passed by our hotel and led us to a small plaza nearby. The morning air was freezing, so we were relieved when the van finally arrived.

After two hours of driving, we reached the village of Cusipata, where our van dropped us off at a sketchy open-sided warehouse that served as a buffet restaurant for tourists. We weren’t the only foreigners there-dozens of other travelers were eating breakfast with their groups. The food looked old, and the restaurant had a one-star rating, so we decided to play it safe. We opted for some fruit and coca tea to help us acclimate to the altitude.

After about 30 minutes, we continued our treacherous journey. The narrow dirt roads were barely wide enough for one vehicle in some areas, with sheer drops of several hundred meters and no guardrails. As we wound our way up the mountains, the elevation climbed from 3,310 meters in Cusipata to well over 4,000 meters. My friend, who was already feeling slightly ill from the in Cuzco, began to feel worse as the oxygen levels decreased.

We parked about 3.5 kilometers from the base of the mountain, as this was as far as most vehicles could go. However, we saw many travelers riding motorcycles and horses to the base of the Vinicunca. Armed with walking sticks provided by our tour agency, we decided to trek on foot.

Most of the hike was relatively flat and easygoing, but as we neared the final stretch, the incline became steeper, and the effects of the altitude hit us hard. We had to slow down frequently to catch our breath, drink water, and check our oxygen levels with my Apple Watch. We were panting, and my friend’s fingernails had turned blue. Meanwhile, our guides were far ahead, shouting for us to hurry, but we simply couldn’t move any faster.

Reaching the base of the mountain, we faced the steepest and most challenging part of our hike. The loose gravel path made it difficult to maintain our footing as we climbed toward the photo overlook point. When we finally made it, we were met with a breathtaking sight—Vinicunca was even more majestic in real life, making the day’s struggles entirely worth it.

The overlook was crowded with tourists taking photos of the legendary mountain. After waiting in line, we took a few pictures with llamas before continuing our climb to an even higher viewpoint at 5,036 meters above sea level—the highest elevation either of us had ever reached. Though we were exhausted and gasping for air, the 360° views were spectacular, and unlike the lower viewpoint,there were fewer tourists competing for photos.

As we checked the time, we realized we had to hurry back to meet our group at the van. After snapping our final pictures, we began sprinting down the hill. The descent was much easier, but about halfway down, my friend suddenly remembered that his travel insurance had expired. The thought of an expensive medical bill if he tripped and broke an ankle on the uneven trail made us slow to a cautious brisk walk.

Back in the parking lot, we passed souvenir stands and makeshift restaurants selling snacks and tea. We made a quick stop at the restroom, grabbed a muña tea to go, and made it to our van just in time—everyone else was already waiting for us.

As we descended back into Cusipata, my friend’s altitude sickness improved slightly.We stopped at the same buffet for lunch, and, not wanting to risk additional stomach issues, we carefully selected our food once again. We endured another two-hour drive back to Cuzco, finally arriving at our hotel around 5:00 PM.