In April 2023, I spent 2 weeks traveling across the Guianas. I started in Georgetown and made my way across to Cayenne. I usually travel on a budget, so most of my hotels, transportation, and activities were low-cost. This is how my trip played out.
GUYANA
Transportation
(Georgetown – Molsen Creek)
I went to P&A’s Bus Service at 75 Church Street (near the Bourda Market) and paid for my ticket in advance, the afternoon before my trip. The price was 13,000 GYD (61.50 USD). There were also many people who paid the driver when they arrived at the border.
There are two other popular ground transportation companies that regularly do this route: Dugla and Justin’s Bus Service. I tried for days to contact them without success. From my understanding, they are also more expensive than P&A’s.
There are alternative forms of transportation to the border, including taxis and airplanes. There are Transguyana, Fly All Ways, and Surinam Airways flights connecting the two countries, but these airlines do not have flights every day. So, it is important to plan accordingly. Prices are, on average, $200 for a one-way ticket and it takes about 45 minutes.
I had originally planned to fly with Fly All Ways, but my flight was cancelled, presumably, due to a lack of passengers for the flight.
Guyanese Immigration
We arrived at Molson Creek at around 8:00 AM and went straight to passport control. There was a fairly long, disorganized line which took around 30 minutes to pass through. After passing though passport control, you may enter the adjacent building at the ferry docks. I chose to exchange some currency into Surinamese dollars with a man on the street before entering the building as I was uncertain when I would have the opportunity again.
The Ferry
A one-way ferry ticket across the Courantyne River is 3,500 GYD (16.50 USD), but I have heard of people being charged 4,000 (19 USD), so it is best to arrive prepared. After obtaining your ticket, you must go through security and go to customs and have your passport scanned.
The ferry does not leave until 10:00 AM and, in my case, it was late. This meant a lot of sitting and waiting. Fortunately, there are bathrooms and a small food stand and in the ferry terminal. The ferry ride takes about 30 minutes and arrives at Nickerie, Suriname.
Safety
Georgetown is more dangerous than it appears, especially around the Stabroek Market. I heard stories from multiple local people about robberies around this market. One taxi driver told me about a European man he picked up who had everything, including the shirt and shorts he was wearing stolen. It is best to exercise caution and not carry anything too valuable outside of your hotel and to visit places like the market with a local, if possible.
Accommodation
I chose to stay at the Status International Hotel. It was, perhaps, not the cheapest accommodation available at 80 USD per night. However, it was comfortable, safe, and had fast internet and great air conditioning. It was not directly in the downtown area but closer to the Bourda market and botanical gardens. There was a restaurant attached to the hotel with a breakfast buffet for 1,500 GYD (7 USD) or lunch/ dinner buffets for 5,000 GYD (24 USD). The food was nothing spectacular or novel but it never made me ill. I would stay there again.
Currency Exchange
There is currently no currency exchange at Georgetown Airport. I found it most convenient to exchange money at the front desk of my hotel, which appeared to be pretty common practice in Guyanese hotels. Although the exchange rate was not the best, it was worth it, as I was not carrying a stack of USD around Georgetown searching for a currency exchange.
Tour Company
I took a trip to Kaieteur Falls with Wilderness Explorers, which has a variety of tours in Guyana. Dagron Tours, Roraima Airways, 592 Tours, and Evergreen Adventures also run tours around Guyana. Many tour agencies are just booking companies for TransGuyana Airways, so in most cases, you will get the same experience regardless of the agency with whom you book. So, it is worth it to search for a good deal.
Wilderness Adventures Contact: shonnette.braithwaite@wilderness-explorers.com
SURINAME
Surinamese Immigration
(Nickerie)
The immigration queue on the Surinamese side was also long and they brought in a new group of people every 10-15 minutes. For those nationalities that have a 25 USD entry fee, it is possible to pay on arrival at this border crossing, but considering the queue, it is better to pay online before arrival.
Transportation
(Nickerie – Paramaribo)
The same company, Paul & Adele’s Guesthouse, had a car waiting for me at the other side of the border. The driver was waiting for me at the door of the immigration building.
Transportation
(Paramaribo – Albina)
I could not find similar transportation companies running daily trips from Paramaribo to Cayenne. I took the public bus from Heiligenweg station (near the Ghandi statue). It is important to arrive by 6:00 AM to get a ticket. There is a bus that runs daily to the border town of Albina for 50 SRD (1.20 USD). The bus leaves at 8:00 AM, is fairly comfortable, and is fairly direct.
There is a parking lot near Drambrandersgracht station, which is a few blocks from the Central Market. There are street taxis waiting there at all hours of the day to take passengers to Albina. Of course, the price will be significantly higher than the public bus.
For those with a slightly higher budget, Ashruf taxi service has personal drivers with nicer cars who can drive you to the border (around 100 USD). During my return trip, I met a fellow traveler at the border and we rode together back to Paramaribo in his Ashruf taxi. It was a great experience and I highly recommend it.
Surinamese Immigration
(Albina)
With an American passport, Surinamese immigration was extremely simple. However, the location of the immigration building in Albina is not so obvious. It is down a side road, not directly next to the boat docks and there are no signs indicating where it is located.
There are dozens of people with boats who will offer to take you across the border to Saint Laurent, French Guiana before you even step off the bus in Albina. The going rate is 200 SRD or 5 EUR, though most will double the price if you are the only passenger in their boat. So, I searched out a boat with other passengers.
It is very common for people to take day trips to Saint Laurent, in which case immigration can be avoided altogether. While a bit risky, if your passport does not allow you entry into the European Union, it is very possible to visit Saint Laurent. If you plan to go farther than Saint Laurent, you MUST get your passport stamped as there are police checkpoints along the roads out of town.
The boat people often try to get you on to their boats before you even step off the bus. However, if you are planning to spend multiple days in French Guiana, it is very important to go to Surinamese immigration before leaving.
There is also a ferry that crosses the river a few times a day, which can be a viable option for those who are crossing at the right time of day.
TIP!! Exchange to Euros on the Surinamese side of the border. There are very few ATMs in Saint Laurent (many do not work with foreign cards) and I could not find a single currency exchange. There are, however, currency exchanges in Albina, Suriname. A Chinese grocery store adjacent to the immigration building exchanges currency informally.
Safety
I never felt unsafe anywhere in Suriname, though I was instructed by multiple people not to go out after dark and to be cautious around the Central Market. As with anywhere, I would just be careful of your belongings, especially in touristy areas.
Accommodation
I stayed at the Gess Hotel, located just a couple blocks from the Central Market. Honestly, I would not recommend this place for comfort or cleanliness. It was pleasant the first time I stayed there but on my return trip, I received a dirty room. When I asked to be moved, they placed me in a room that smelled extremely moldy and had urine stains on the bathroom floor. I paid for 2 nights and, when I returned on the second day, the manager insisted that I needed to check out or pay for an extra night. I had to dig out my receipt to prove I had paid for 2 nights. The internet was also slow and did not reach my room. Nevertheless, the hotel’s location is convenient and it works in a pinch.
If you choose to stay at the Gess Hotel, book directly on their website. Customers walking in from the street are quoted a higher rate. I made this mistake on my return trip! The second time my rate was raised from 45 USD to 62 USD because I did not book online.
Currency Exchange
Currency exchanges in Suriname are called ‘cambios.’ There are a couple near the Central Market and at some casinos. It is also possible to exchange in some markets. Generally, it is not necessary to use the local currency. Most establishments welcome US dollars due to the devaluation of the Surinamese dollar.
Tour Company
Jenny Tours seems to be the most popular tour company in Suriname. Every foreigner that I spoke to in Paramaribo was taking one of their tours. I went dolphin watching and took a plantation tour along the Commewijne River.
FRENCH GUIANA
French Guianese Immigration
With an American passport, French Guianese immigration was straightforward. There were no questions asked and no queue.
Transportation
(Saint Laurent – Cayenne)
There were no taxis or buses waiting when I arrived at the French Guiana side of the border so I walked about a kilometer to a hotel, spent the night in Saint Laurent, and took a van to Cayenne in the morning. There are buses and vans leaving from Gare Routière in Saint Laurent to Cayenne nearly every day. A seat in a van should cost about 40 EUR and the bus should be around 25 EUR.
When you take the van, it will not leave until it is full or almost full. That meant driving around Saint Laurent and waiting at the boat docks for nearly 2 hours before we had enough passengers to leave. My driver also was running some side hustles. He made lots of stops along the way, delivering fruit, baguettes, chocolate etc. to people in the farmers who lived along the route. He stopped to talk to friends and for the occasional smoke break. This 3-hour trip took over 6 hours so be advised that is it not a speedy mode of transportation.
I was not impressed by this company’s service but if no other options are available, it is an option:
Monimomfou Transports Telephone: +594 694 284 378
Transportation
(Cayenne – Saint Laurent)
Early most mornings, there are direct buses to Saint Laurent. The price is 25 EUR and they depart from Gare Routière (yes, it has the same name as the station in Saint Laurent). There are plenty of taxis waiting at the station early in the morning, many of which are happy to take passengers to Saint Laurent. I was quoted 60 EUR for the trip by multiple drivers.
My main purpose for visiting French Guiana was to see the launch of JUICE by the European Space Agency. I caught a shared taxi from Gare Routière in Cayenne to Kourou (20 EUR) and then a shared van to Saint Laurent (40 EUR).
First driver: His name was Dave and he speaks English. He drives exclusively between Kourou and Cayenne.
Phone Number: +594 694 011 428
Second Driver: His name was Jerry and he also speaks English. He drives a van from Kourou to Saint Laurent.
Phone Number: +594 694 148 439
Flights
Entering French Guiana via the land border from Suriname or Brazil is the most convenient and cost effective option for most travelers. At the time of writing, the only direct flights to Cayenne are from France, Martinique, and Guadeloupe. Most flights have a layover in France, which is inconvenient for those living in North or South America.
There are rumors that by the end of 2023 there will also be direct flights from Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, making French Guiana more accessible for those of us living in the Americas.
Safety
I felt extremely safe in French Guiana. There was quite a large police presence, which made me feel safe walking through the streets at all hours of the day. Cayenne is vibrant at night and, when I was there, there were food trucks, people playing soccer in the Place des Palmistes, a small carnival, and people riding bikes. Near my Airbnb there was a park, Place des Amandiers, with a beautiful view of the ocean with children playing and old men playing boules late into the evening. If anything, I enjoyed the evenings more than the daytime!
Accommodation
Hotels in French Guiana are, on average, more expensive than those in Guyana and Suriname. Most places I found were 100-150 USD per night. I stayed at the Hôtel Amazonia du Fleuve in Saint Laurent. It was 120 EUR for the night. I managed to save a bit of money in Cayenne by staying at an Airbnb, which cost about 65 EUR per night.
For those planning to visit French Guiana for a rocket launch, it is vital to book accommodations in advance. Hotels, hostels, and Airbnbs all fill up on the week of the week of a launch, even in Saint Laurent and Cayenne.
Currency Exchange
I exchanged money in Suriname before crossing into French Guiana. The only ATM I could find in Saint Laurent did not accept international cards but I was able to withdraw cash in Cayenne. I never saw a currency exchange during the entire time I was in French Guiana and no one I spoke to knew where to find one either.
Tours
I planned to visit the Guiana Space Center during my trip, though unfortunately it did not work out. To arrange a tour, an email must be sent to the GSC at least 2 days in advance requesting a tour and provide a passport photo.
The GSC generally does not schedule tours for the days leading up to or following a rocket launch. Those who are hoping to see a launch and tour the GSC may need to extend their time in Kourou.
Guiana Space Center Tour Scheduling: visites.csg@cnes.fr
